Trani: jewel of the Adriatic in Puglia
Trani, Puglia
Have you ever been to a place in Italy that captivates you so completely and makes you feel like you are part of its past? For me there are only a select few that make me feel this way and one in particular stands out among the others: Trani in Puglia.
A secret and picturesque city on the Adriatic coast is one of these hidden gems in Puglia, that draws you in again and again with its many charms. As soon as you arrive, you can instantly feel yourself readjust to the ‘slow living’ that the locals encourage and you can easily find yourself spend hours watching the light wash over the cathedral and play magic tricks with the sea!
Trani’s Cathedral
Whether I’m sitting in a café facing the charming port where the strong azure of the sky nearly blends in with the sea or finding myself on a bench by the waterfront admiring its imposing cathedral on one side and magnificent castle on the other, I can’t help but think about the people that wandered these same streets and sailed this sea and I’m curious to discover their stories.
Adding to the historical importance of this fascinating city, where even in the present the buildings seem to exude an air of romance, intrigue and mystery, the port of Trani under the Normans during medieval times, was the place where crusaders embarked for the Holy Land after a vigil at the nearby church of Ognissanti.
The Castle of Trani, one of Southern Italy’s Swabian castles, was originally built by the sea as a defense to the city and throughout the centuries it has been witness to so many important events that if walls could speak, they would tell endless tales of pain, suffering and sacrifice.
On 2nd June 1259, the castle, facing the sea, proudly stood witness to a happy event and welcomed the arrival of 8 galleys which brought to Apulia the bride of King Manfred, son of Frederick II, Helena the daughter of the despot Epirus.
Trani’s castle
It must have been a sight to behold and you can imagine the King warmly embracing her and leading her through the city to everybody’s applause and then taking her to the castle for the wedding celebrations. The castle had now transformed itself into a beacon of light and the night had seemed like day time, as illuminations all around brought hope for the future. Nowadays, the castle hosts many events, particularly during summer, including an evocative re-enactment of Manfred’s wedding that recreates the medieval atmosphere of the time.
Whether you are strolling in the charming public gardens, visiting its 2 major landmarks, the castle and cathedral, or wandering through the centre where you can breathe in history and art at every turn, this city will no doubt leave an indelible memory in your heart and mind. The last time I was there, as I looked at the sunset from my hotel balcony and watched the sun dance on the water, I felt strangely calm and alive and vowed to myself to come back, sure that each visit would bring a different emotion and experience.
If you are based in Bari, you can easily reach Trani by train in half an hour (www.trenitalia.com). However if you are basing yourself in the lovely city of Lecce further south, you can reach it by train in 2 and a half hours.
Best things to do in Trani:
Visit Villa Comunale, the lovely park overlooking the port where you can relax and enjoy nature
Trani’s Cathedral - Trani’s imposing Romanesque Cathedral overlooking the sea
Trani’s Castle - Trani’s medieval castle rich in history and offering views of the harbor.
Church of Ognissanti - Built in the 12th century is attributed to the work of the Templars and it remains especially important during medieval times, as it was used by the crusaders before setting off for the Holy Land.
Where to stay in Trani:
I can highly recommend staying at the 4* hotel Hotel San Paolo al Convento in Trani, converted from a 15th century convent and overlooking the picturesque harbor. I stayed here a few times and it’s ideal for a romantic weekend stay.
Where to eat in Trani:
Gallo Restaurant in via Statuti Marittimi No 48, Trani
Map of Puglia